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I have two IRA accounts, the contributions made to these accounts were post tax. I'm thinking of converting IRA accounts to a single Roth IRA account. I expected that something like this should be straight forward, but more I read about it more complex it becomes, particularly in regards to taxable amount in the IRAs. Here is the situation:1) IRA 1: Other than non-deductible contribution, it has a small gain of about $300.00.2) IRA 2: Other than non-deductible contribution, it has gain of about $3,300.00.To make things simple I'm going to combine the two IRAs prior to conversion, so total gains would be around $3,600.00. Now my question is on what amount I will owe taxes? I'm assuming $3,600, is that correct? Second what if I add another $5,000.00 post tax money to IRA prior to conversion, but leave this amount in traditional IRA account? How would that mess up with taxable amount?Thanks!
Are there any regulation wrt burning papers at home/apartment? Our unit does have fireplace, but we never ever used it before. I want to burn papers (with financial, sensitive, personal information), rather than shredding.
I am eligible for a ~$30,000 grant to purchase a new home. There are many signs pointing to the local property market being over priced. I'd like to take advantage of the grant and was thinking getting a new place on a 3 year mortgage. Pay the 10% deposit and the interest only over the next 3 years. If the market goes up in the next 3 year remortgage the property and keep it. If it goes down. Well at the end of 3 years I hand the keys over to the bank and lose my deposit. My target price for a home is ~$100,000-$200,000. I need to live in the place for 6 months. So the most rent I can get will be 2.5 years. My aim is to have a risk free bet on the property market and maybe to pocket some of the grant money.Never owned a home before. So maybe I am making some naive mistakes about what I can do. This is not in the USA. Looking for some opinions. Thanks.
Currently have Bank of America checking/savings etc and want to figure out how I can transfer some $ periodically to my 16 year old nephew's bank account. He has an account with a different bank in KS, I'm in Texas.I see per BOA;
Outbound Transfers: If you transfer money to accounts you own at other financial institutions or to an account owned by someone else, the following transfer fees will apply for each transfer:3-business-day processing is $3.00
Next-business-day processing is $10.00
Same-business-day processing (wire transfer) varies by region (The actual fee disclosure is on the Make Transfer page.)Is there a cheaper way to wire/transfer him money? I'm not sure about the bank he has CoreFirst Bank, but could I also set up an account in that bank and then transfer $ to him. Even that way though I don't have a branch locally so would have to pay to transfer my $ in so that doesn't work. Any other ideas of how to get $ directly to him without mailing him a check every two weeks? and without fees?Thanks in advance.
Outbound Transfers: If you transfer money to accounts you own at other financial institutions or to an account owned by someone else, the following transfer fees will apply for each transfer:3-business-day processing is $3.00
Next-business-day processing is $10.00
Same-business-day processing (wire transfer) varies by region (The actual fee disclosure is on the Make Transfer page.)Is there a cheaper way to wire/transfer him money? I'm not sure about the bank he has CoreFirst Bank, but could I also set up an account in that bank and then transfer $ to him. Even that way though I don't have a branch locally so would have to pay to transfer my $ in so that doesn't work. Any other ideas of how to get $ directly to him without mailing him a check every two weeks? and without fees?Thanks in advance.
I swear i had a brain fart and filled in all the info about selling a home and Turbo Tax ate it...I moved in 2010 and sold my home for $264,000. I purchased it in 2007 for $286,000 and put about $40,000 into it in repairs and upgrades. There were no capital gains on this puppy. I bought a new house in 2011 for $253,000. I got a letter from the IRS saying i did not report the sale of my home. They gave me 30 days to respond to the letter. I think if i do not file an amended return, then they will nail me for $264,000 in capital gains. What do I need to do? Should I get a CPA to help me?
I've recently started a new job and would like to sign up for a 401k. I'm given the following options in terms of investments (net expense ratios for each option included):
Stocks
Large Company
American Beacon Lg Cap Value Inv - AAGPX - 0.97%
American Funds Growth Fund of Amer - RGAFX - 0.38%
Schwab S&P 500 Index - SWPPX - 0.09%
Small/Mid Co.
Alger Small Cap Growth Institutiona - ALSRX - 1.23%
Artisan Mid Cap Value Investor - ARTQX - 1.21%
Columbia Acorn Z - ACRNX - 0.76%
Federated Mid-Cap Index Svc - FMDCX - 0.56%
Heartland Value - HRTVX - 1.14%
Intl/Global
Harbor International Inv - HIINX - 1.16%
William Blair International Growth - WBIGX - 1.43%
Bonds
Columbia Intermediate Bond Z - SRBFX - 0.59%
Balanced
Invesco Van Kampen Equity and Incom - ACETX - 0.56%
Schwab Mngd Ret Trust 2010 Cl II - for all target funds exp. ratio is 0.69%
Schwab Mngd Ret Trust 2020 Cl II
Schwab Mngd Ret Trust 2030 Cl II
Schwab Mngd Ret Trust 2040 Cl II
Schwab Mngd Ret Trust 2050 Cl II
Schwab Mngd Ret Trust Income Cl II
Capital Preservation
Schwab Stable Value - 0.50% exp. ratio, fund terminating on Apr. 30, 2012These options don't look to good to me, but maybe more seasoned investors think differently? I'm in my late 20s, so was planning on investing 75-85% into stocks.
Stocks
Large Company
American Beacon Lg Cap Value Inv - AAGPX - 0.97%
American Funds Growth Fund of Amer - RGAFX - 0.38%
Schwab S&P 500 Index - SWPPX - 0.09%
Small/Mid Co.
Alger Small Cap Growth Institutiona - ALSRX - 1.23%
Artisan Mid Cap Value Investor - ARTQX - 1.21%
Columbia Acorn Z - ACRNX - 0.76%
Federated Mid-Cap Index Svc - FMDCX - 0.56%
Heartland Value - HRTVX - 1.14%
Intl/Global
Harbor International Inv - HIINX - 1.16%
William Blair International Growth - WBIGX - 1.43%
Bonds
Columbia Intermediate Bond Z - SRBFX - 0.59%
Balanced
Invesco Van Kampen Equity and Incom - ACETX - 0.56%
Schwab Mngd Ret Trust 2010 Cl II - for all target funds exp. ratio is 0.69%
Schwab Mngd Ret Trust 2020 Cl II
Schwab Mngd Ret Trust 2030 Cl II
Schwab Mngd Ret Trust 2040 Cl II
Schwab Mngd Ret Trust 2050 Cl II
Schwab Mngd Ret Trust Income Cl II
Capital Preservation
Schwab Stable Value - 0.50% exp. ratio, fund terminating on Apr. 30, 2012These options don't look to good to me, but maybe more seasoned investors think differently? I'm in my late 20s, so was planning on investing 75-85% into stocks.
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Was just told about a renovation loan for a foreclosure property im looking at. Any feedback appreciated. Nothing came up in a search, and google just gave bank webpages but no details or fine print.
Hello,Currently I am paying PMI (Private Mortgage Insurance) for the loan serviced by Wells Fargo. I recently contacted Wells Fargo regarding the no cost refinance for existing customers. However, the representative noted (very timidly) that I do not qualify because I currently pay PMI.Instead, I was told that if I refinance (with closing cost), PMI will come off because "the current lender of the loan believes my house has appraised enough." Kind of funny how they will not allow me to remove PMI to refinance at no cost but are willing to remove PMI if I refinance (with closing cost).Is it true that if I have PMI on account, they will not offer the no cost refinance option? Should I keep trying? Any other suggestions or comments?Thank you
Just a heads up. I have the Priceline rewards Visa Signature, and the following BT offer appeared today when I checked online (my statement cycle had just closed):0% Promotional APR through February X, 2013, after that a variable XX.XX%.
1% Balance Transfer Fee ($5.00 minimum / no maximum)
Transaction must post by 04/X/12.(I blocked out the specific days of the month and interest rate for privacy.)A 1% fee on a 0% one-year BT is a pretty good deal. Prior to this, they were offering me a 14 month BT with a 2% fee.I hope this helps someone. If you have this card, perhaps login online and check the transfer offers.-mike
1% Balance Transfer Fee ($5.00 minimum / no maximum)
Transaction must post by 04/X/12.(I blocked out the specific days of the month and interest rate for privacy.)A 1% fee on a 0% one-year BT is a pretty good deal. Prior to this, they were offering me a 14 month BT with a 2% fee.I hope this helps someone. If you have this card, perhaps login online and check the transfer offers.-mike
Not sure if many here have received this letter from Chase. It says the 1099-INT they may have sent me was incomplete or they didnt send it in by Jan 31st at all. So they're going to send me an additional/original 1099-INT by Feb 7th.If you've already filed your income taxes and need to amend it, please call us at the number below and we'll reimburse the fee for filing the amendment.This could be a great way to make money on your tax preparations!
OK I am posting for some general advice as to what to do finance planning for my wife and I's first child. I have searched the forums and done some research online but I still have some concerns and some questions. Here is what I have learned and maybe someone else can correct or clarify these statements...1: We live in MA and a 529 is not tax deductible for MA and only use able for a MA school. We do not plan to stay in MA.
2: Roth IRA is funded with taxed money and all earning are tax free. Has a income cap of $169k (We are above 100 but below 169). We can invest up to $5K a year and money must stay in Roth for 5 years to avoid penalty? Do we stop investing into it at 13 years of child age?
3: We do not plan on any more children so if the child does not go to school, we don't get the money. We have no close relatives that we would want to transfer it to either.With these points in consideration I am having a hard time making a final choice. It seems like a Roth may be the best route as we don't risk the child not going to school this way. I don't know that we could break the $5K limit currently, but I am sure we would in the future. Do we just go with a roth until that point comes? Is there something I am missing with a 529? I looked and I think the vanguard NV option is the best for us, but still, that risk doesn't seem worth it as it will be a only child.Also, I see there are some cards that can be used to fund 2% rewards into these accounts. This sounds like a good thing if available for the account we chose. I figure I won't miss the $50 in rewards every month or 2 if it just goes into a account like this. I also have a $6K IRA that is separate from our normal retirement savings and I would be willing to roll this over into something else if it would do any good.Thank you for any answers or assistance anyone can help in us making the right decision in saving for our 1st and only child.
2: Roth IRA is funded with taxed money and all earning are tax free. Has a income cap of $169k (We are above 100 but below 169). We can invest up to $5K a year and money must stay in Roth for 5 years to avoid penalty? Do we stop investing into it at 13 years of child age?
3: We do not plan on any more children so if the child does not go to school, we don't get the money. We have no close relatives that we would want to transfer it to either.With these points in consideration I am having a hard time making a final choice. It seems like a Roth may be the best route as we don't risk the child not going to school this way. I don't know that we could break the $5K limit currently, but I am sure we would in the future. Do we just go with a roth until that point comes? Is there something I am missing with a 529? I looked and I think the vanguard NV option is the best for us, but still, that risk doesn't seem worth it as it will be a only child.Also, I see there are some cards that can be used to fund 2% rewards into these accounts. This sounds like a good thing if available for the account we chose. I figure I won't miss the $50 in rewards every month or 2 if it just goes into a account like this. I also have a $6K IRA that is separate from our normal retirement savings and I would be willing to roll this over into something else if it would do any good.Thank you for any answers or assistance anyone can help in us making the right decision in saving for our 1st and only child.
Hello,I am a pilot with some chunks of time off each month, and want to get into the secret shopper field a bit! I got into this a few years ago and got paid to go to burger king, TGIfridays and a few other places, one even paid me to take my dog to the vet! I have not done anything with this in about 5 years, and want to avoid a scam website, or one that will not pay me. I saw www.secretshopper.com and signed up with them, as they are seems legit since they link to the BBB. I figure some of the stay home mom/dads on here do stuff with them to make some cash, or even just to get paid back for the assignments which you would do anyway. Thanks, I also typed this up fast from my phone, I realize when I do secret shopper I will need to do it on the computer and use good spelling/grammar!Rick
Doing my taxes with hrblock.com online program...Just got a 1099-MISC for my Amazon Associate Royalties...Where would I claim these? There are two options that I can see, one is "Self-Employment" and the other is "Rentals and Royalties"...I first chose Rentals and Royalties, but that appears to be more related to real estate rentals, or music or simlar royalties. Should I claim this under self-employment?Thanks for any help as usual!
We have about $37k left on our mortgage at 4.675%. We're within 5 years or so of paying it off, and the principal is low enough that I have not been successful in finding a no-fee refinance at a rate that makes any sense to go through the process. I am now thinking of taking a Penfed equity loan with a 5 year term at 2.99%. No closing costs, no appraisal because less than 60% LTV. Seems like a no brainer to me -- I calculate we'll save about $1600 in interest. Not bad for a few hours work. Am I missing anything?
It looks like apying sales tax on online purchases is inevitable. But the sales tax on edocuments is interesting. I found this on the Amazon site:
For sales tax purposes, electronically delivered products (e-books, e-documents, and electronically delivered software) are considered to be shipped to your credit card billing address. I buy a lot of ebooks and all my recent software purchases have been downloads so, if I can get a credit card with a billing address in say Oregon, which has no sales tax, it would eliminate the tax. Since I pay all my CC bills with billpay and get my statements and other correspondence delivered electronically I do not care where the billing address is. Suppose I change the billing address on an issued card to someplace in Oregon? For example a mailing service for fulltime RVers. Any ideas on possible downsides to this scheme? What mailing address to use?
For sales tax purposes, electronically delivered products (e-books, e-documents, and electronically delivered software) are considered to be shipped to your credit card billing address. I buy a lot of ebooks and all my recent software purchases have been downloads so, if I can get a credit card with a billing address in say Oregon, which has no sales tax, it would eliminate the tax. Since I pay all my CC bills with billpay and get my statements and other correspondence delivered electronically I do not care where the billing address is. Suppose I change the billing address on an issued card to someplace in Oregon? For example a mailing service for fulltime RVers. Any ideas on possible downsides to this scheme? What mailing address to use?
Hi, long time lurker here. You guys are a wealth of knowledge. Just wanted to get your expert opinion on something.Recently, a friend invited me to an Invado International meeting at his home. I declined the offer after he told me about it and sent me some videos since I smelled that it was a big time scam. I'm sure it's the usual MLM pyramid scam but I just wanted to get some second opinions on it.Here's some info of what Invado "sells":1.) They're in the energy market for the states that are unregulated.
2.) They sell some lame tablet.
3.) They started a group buying coupon site called "Daily Referral", much like Groupon and Living Social.To be a customer is free. Independent Representative is $499 (Red Flag 1)
There is also a $29 monthly fee for a business monthly kit. (Red Flag 2)Their website is: http://www.invadoinc.com/
A sister website with a few videos at: http://www.invadokingdombuilders.com/And a youtube video at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBgFERhusCU&feature=youtu.beLike I said I just want some second opinions about it. I hate to see a friend fall for a scam like this. Thank you.
2.) They sell some lame tablet.
3.) They started a group buying coupon site called "Daily Referral", much like Groupon and Living Social.To be a customer is free. Independent Representative is $499 (Red Flag 1)
There is also a $29 monthly fee for a business monthly kit. (Red Flag 2)Their website is: http://www.invadoinc.com/
A sister website with a few videos at: http://www.invadokingdombuilders.com/And a youtube video at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBgFERhusCU&feature=youtu.beLike I said I just want some second opinions about it. I hate to see a friend fall for a scam like this. Thank you.
I closed an HSBC account earlier in the year and completely forgot about it, until I got a 1099-INT in the mail for ~$75. Problem is, I have already filed my taxes and waiting for me ~1000 return. What should I do now? My taxes are pretty simple (just the 1040, no schedules and no itemized deductions).
Ok, here's the situation. I was signed up for the Freedom card 4 months ago and came to realize 2 months thereafter that the promo I signed up for was a measly $10 CashBack bonus on first purchase. Of course I then see the $200 CashBack promo and think I've been duped. I ended up calling card services to see what I can do and they said if I have a "promo code" they would honor the $200 CashBack. I never received a letter with a promo code but did as if they are unique codes to the recipient or general universal codes and was told the latter, they are not unique. My question did anyone receive a letter with this promotion or promo code that they could share? If not any advice on the situation. I already tried the whole "I'm gonna cancel this card and sign up for a new one" but the system will reject it because i was approved within last 6 months. Help please! promo code, advice, anyone?
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I thought I would try this topic to see how it goes over in FWF Finance. First, this isn't a political discussion about arbitration - it isn't the place for it so please lets not go there. This is about arbitration in the workplace for those of you that are either under some sort of collective bargaining agreement, considering a job that involves one, or just have questions about it. You might be asking the following:- Why post this in FWF finance?
Because for quite a few people (although a shrinking number of people overall, I know) arbitrators have tremendous power over your pay, can overturn your employers decision to discharge you (or sustain it), determine your benefits, etc. Its as much of a finance topic as any employment related thread it.- Why are you qualified to talk about it?
For the past 4 years I've worked for an arbitrator part time that does public and private sector labor arbitration. Over the course of that time I have done everything but sit in the arbitrator's chair during the hearing. I have written around two dozen binding decisions(involving companies like Norfolk Southern, the Social Security Administration, various regional hospitals, etc.) - the position is sort of like a law clerk in that the judge sits on the bench but we all know the law clerks do much of the writing and generally know the inner-workings of the system.- And your legal credentials are?
Absolutely zero! I am not a lawyer, I make no claims to having anything but practical experience with this and about a semester's worth of law school classes that I took as electives in graduate school. Most of the arbitrators I've met are not lawyers - most of them do have a few masters degrees or a PhD though - subject doesn't seem to matter though. The arbitrator I work for has a PhD in political science. Most clients actually seem to prefer a non-lawyer arbitrator.I should note this does not cover consumer arbitration (I've never been a part to cases involving credit card arbitration or anything like that) - just workplace arbitration. We may not have enough people who care about this, in which I'll just let the thread die. Again, please, as a reminder: this is supposed to be a functional decision about arbitration and how it can effect your employment - how to handle it and that sort of thing. Please don't put your personal politics in here.
Because for quite a few people (although a shrinking number of people overall, I know) arbitrators have tremendous power over your pay, can overturn your employers decision to discharge you (or sustain it), determine your benefits, etc. Its as much of a finance topic as any employment related thread it.- Why are you qualified to talk about it?
For the past 4 years I've worked for an arbitrator part time that does public and private sector labor arbitration. Over the course of that time I have done everything but sit in the arbitrator's chair during the hearing. I have written around two dozen binding decisions(involving companies like Norfolk Southern, the Social Security Administration, various regional hospitals, etc.) - the position is sort of like a law clerk in that the judge sits on the bench but we all know the law clerks do much of the writing and generally know the inner-workings of the system.- And your legal credentials are?
Absolutely zero! I am not a lawyer, I make no claims to having anything but practical experience with this and about a semester's worth of law school classes that I took as electives in graduate school. Most of the arbitrators I've met are not lawyers - most of them do have a few masters degrees or a PhD though - subject doesn't seem to matter though. The arbitrator I work for has a PhD in political science. Most clients actually seem to prefer a non-lawyer arbitrator.I should note this does not cover consumer arbitration (I've never been a part to cases involving credit card arbitration or anything like that) - just workplace arbitration. We may not have enough people who care about this, in which I'll just let the thread die. Again, please, as a reminder: this is supposed to be a functional decision about arbitration and how it can effect your employment - how to handle it and that sort of thing. Please don't put your personal politics in here.
I applied for an US Airways World Premier MC as part of the US Airways 2011 Grand Slam Promo. I got CL of $10K after closing another CC (old BT offer). In Jan, they pull my TransUnion credit report and received a letter saying that they are decreasing the CL to $1K due to "Too many accounts opened in the past 6 months". I had applied for 6 cards since August 11 (2 CHASE, 2 CITI, Barclay, Discover).The letter also states that they obtained my credit score & used it in making the decision. At least, I got a free TU FICO score due to the CLD.Has anyone received such action from Barclay recently?I am also hoping that the card is still a World Premier MC in which case the CL shouldn't matter. I will call & check.
I received this letter in the mail today...............Text
January 23, 2012To Our Valued Customers,We take our responsibility to protect your personal data very seriously. Earlier this month, we discovered that an employee of an independent software development consulting firm (contracted by NYSEG and RG&E) allowed unauthorized access to one of our customer information systems. The customer records contain Social Security numbers, dates of birth and, in some cases, financial institution account numbers.While we have no evidence that such data has actually been misused, or that there was any malicious intent, we are notifying you out of an abundance of caution so that you have the information and tools necessary to help detect and prevent any misuse of personal information. We have consulted with law enforcement and engaged computer forensics experts. Our investigation is ongoing and we will continue to provide law enforcement with our full assistance.Credit Monitoring AssistanceAbove all, we ask you to be vigilant in monitoring your credit and bank accounts for any sign of unauthorized activity. If you suspect any incidence of identity theft, please contact your local law enforcement agency or the Federal Trade Commission.As a precautionary measure, NYSEG and RG&E have arranged for Experian to offer you the option of a year of credit monitoring free of charge through ProtectMyID. If you'd like to take advantage of this offer, you must enroll by April 30, 2012. You can activate your membership in two easy steps:Visit the ProtectMyID website: www.protectmyid.com/NYSEGandRGE or call 1.877.736.4495 (toll-free) or
1.479.573.7373 (for international callers) to enroll.
Provide Your Activation Code, which will be mailed to your billing address.
Your complimentary 12-month ProtectMyID membership includes:Credit Report: A free copy of your Experian credit report.
Daily Credit Monitoring: Alerts you to suspicious activity including new inquiries, newly-opened accounts, delinquencies, or collections found on your Experian credit report. You can elect to receive alerts by e-mail, text message, or first class mail.
Identity Theft Resolution: If you have been a victim of identity theft as a result of this situation, you will be assigned a dedicated, U.S.-based Experian Identity Theft Resolution Agent who will walk you through the fraud resolution process, from start to finish.
$1 Million Identity Theft Insurance*: As a ProtectMyID member, you are immediately covered by a $1 million insurance policy that can help you cover certain costs including lost wages, private investigator fees and unauthorized electronic fund transfers in the event of an identity theft incident.
SupportIf you have questions, need help enrolling in the credit monitoring program, or feel that you may have an identity theft issue, assistance is available at 1.877.736.4495 (toll-free) or 1.479.573.7373 (for international callers), Monday through Friday, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. (Eastern Time), and Saturday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.In addition, you are entitled under U.S. law to order one free copy of your credit report every 12 months from each of the three nationwide credit bureaus. To order your free credit report, visit www.annualcreditreport.com or call 1.877.322.8228 (toll-free).If you wish to learn more about ways to limit the risk of identity theft, such as fraud monitoring and security freezes on credit accounts, consider contacting the Federal Trade Commission or your state Attorney General.Federal Trade Commission:
600 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Washington, DC 20580
1.877.ID.THEFT (1.877.438.4338)
www.ftc.gov/idtheftWe take pride in serving you and apologize for any inconvenience or concern that this incident may cause. Please be assured that we take the privacy of customer data very seriously, and we remain dedicated to using our best efforts to regularly assess and adapt our physical, administrative and technical security measures in order to protect such data.Mark S. Lynch
President
NYSEG and RG&E
* Identity theft insurance is underwritten by insurance company subsidiaries or affiliates of Chartis, Inc. The description herein is a summary and intended for informational purposes only and does not include all terms, conditions and exclusions of the policies described. Please refer to the actual policies for terms, conditions, and exclusions of coverage. Coverage may not be available in all jurisdictions.
January 23, 2012To Our Valued Customers,We take our responsibility to protect your personal data very seriously. Earlier this month, we discovered that an employee of an independent software development consulting firm (contracted by NYSEG and RG&E) allowed unauthorized access to one of our customer information systems. The customer records contain Social Security numbers, dates of birth and, in some cases, financial institution account numbers.While we have no evidence that such data has actually been misused, or that there was any malicious intent, we are notifying you out of an abundance of caution so that you have the information and tools necessary to help detect and prevent any misuse of personal information. We have consulted with law enforcement and engaged computer forensics experts. Our investigation is ongoing and we will continue to provide law enforcement with our full assistance.Credit Monitoring AssistanceAbove all, we ask you to be vigilant in monitoring your credit and bank accounts for any sign of unauthorized activity. If you suspect any incidence of identity theft, please contact your local law enforcement agency or the Federal Trade Commission.As a precautionary measure, NYSEG and RG&E have arranged for Experian to offer you the option of a year of credit monitoring free of charge through ProtectMyID. If you'd like to take advantage of this offer, you must enroll by April 30, 2012. You can activate your membership in two easy steps:Visit the ProtectMyID website: www.protectmyid.com/NYSEGandRGE or call 1.877.736.4495 (toll-free) or
1.479.573.7373 (for international callers) to enroll.
Provide Your Activation Code, which will be mailed to your billing address.
Your complimentary 12-month ProtectMyID membership includes:Credit Report: A free copy of your Experian credit report.
Daily Credit Monitoring: Alerts you to suspicious activity including new inquiries, newly-opened accounts, delinquencies, or collections found on your Experian credit report. You can elect to receive alerts by e-mail, text message, or first class mail.
Identity Theft Resolution: If you have been a victim of identity theft as a result of this situation, you will be assigned a dedicated, U.S.-based Experian Identity Theft Resolution Agent who will walk you through the fraud resolution process, from start to finish.
$1 Million Identity Theft Insurance*: As a ProtectMyID member, you are immediately covered by a $1 million insurance policy that can help you cover certain costs including lost wages, private investigator fees and unauthorized electronic fund transfers in the event of an identity theft incident.
SupportIf you have questions, need help enrolling in the credit monitoring program, or feel that you may have an identity theft issue, assistance is available at 1.877.736.4495 (toll-free) or 1.479.573.7373 (for international callers), Monday through Friday, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. (Eastern Time), and Saturday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.In addition, you are entitled under U.S. law to order one free copy of your credit report every 12 months from each of the three nationwide credit bureaus. To order your free credit report, visit www.annualcreditreport.com or call 1.877.322.8228 (toll-free).If you wish to learn more about ways to limit the risk of identity theft, such as fraud monitoring and security freezes on credit accounts, consider contacting the Federal Trade Commission or your state Attorney General.Federal Trade Commission:
600 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Washington, DC 20580
1.877.ID.THEFT (1.877.438.4338)
www.ftc.gov/idtheftWe take pride in serving you and apologize for any inconvenience or concern that this incident may cause. Please be assured that we take the privacy of customer data very seriously, and we remain dedicated to using our best efforts to regularly assess and adapt our physical, administrative and technical security measures in order to protect such data.Mark S. Lynch
President
NYSEG and RG&E
* Identity theft insurance is underwritten by insurance company subsidiaries or affiliates of Chartis, Inc. The description herein is a summary and intended for informational purposes only and does not include all terms, conditions and exclusions of the policies described. Please refer to the actual policies for terms, conditions, and exclusions of coverage. Coverage may not be available in all jurisdictions.
I just received 1099-MISC from AMEX for $686.50 for the 2011 Holiday Gift Chain promo. I am sure many of you participated in this so be prepared for it. The amount is pretty close to what I estimated for my profit ($700). But definitely didn't expect the 1099-MISC. This is new even though this was all from CC-related transactions and mail-in letters. Based on my estimate & tracking, it doesn't seem like this is just for the mail-in letters that I did.We are getting into new territory now for these CC-related promos. Wonder what 2012 has in store.
Hi all,I currently have around $7000 in credit card debt (0% until 8/2012) and $7500 in student loans (6.55% fixed). I have contributed $15,000 to my Roth IRA so I can withdraw it at any time, penalty free.Would you withdraw 3 years worth of contributions ($5,000 * 3 years = $15,000) in order to pay off all of your debts in one shot?What would be an optimal way to pay off this debt without losing the opportunity cost of 3 years contributing to my Roth IRA? Essentially, I'm interested in minimizing my interest payments as well as minimizing lost opportunity cost, but I have to give up one or the other if I'd like to pay it off in one fell swoop.